Suddenly, the birds toss back their heads in a piercing evocative duet, on the sandbank below well fed monster crocodiles snap to life startled from their naps, invisible except for a pair of sentry eyes peeking menacingly above the surface.

A reclusive Sitatunga, the shaggy aquatic antelope strolls majestically through the water, bird songs fill the air, trees wave in the breeze and pleasant exotic aroma of many flowers make for a heady perfume while the washing up of waves on the beach lull visitors into a comfortable lethargy.

A water wonderland: that is Rubondo Island National Park.